2007 Hyundai Sonata Stereo Wiring

This is a fast follow-up to my original post, 2007 Hyundai Sonata Aux Input. I saved up all my allowance money (i.e. I wasn't between jobs) and purchased a new stereo unit with Bluetooth so I could make and accept calls more safely on the road.

Here's everything I bought to make this happen:

I was initially wary of the dashboard adapter being black, when the rest was clearly... not black. Now I don't even notice. It's not perfect but I have no regrets.

The receiver comes with it's own cable, and you can either choose to snip off the existing connector in the car, or you can buy a car-specific cable harness. I decided I really did not want to jam my hands into the dashboard, stripping and soldering cables in a confined space. I also liked the idea of being able to swap the stock stereo back in later. 

Some investigation online, followed by careful testing, yielded the following wire mapping:

Car Radio Constant 12v+ WireGrayYellowYellow
Car Radio Switched 12v+ WireOrange/BlackRedRed
Car Radio Ground WireBlackBlackBlack
Car Radio Illumination WireBlueOrange/WhiteOrange/White
Car Stereo Dimmer WireWhite/BlackN/AN/A
Car Stereo Antenna TriggerGreen/BlackBlue/WhiteBlue/White
Car Stereo Amp Trigger WirePink/BlackBlue/WhiteBlue/White
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+)GreenWhiteWhite
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-)BlueWhite/BlackWhite/Black
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+)GrayGreyGrey
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-)Red/OrangeGrey/BlackGrey/Black
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+)OrangeGreenGreen
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-)PinkGreen/BlackGreen/Black
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+)WhiteVioletViolet
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-)RedViolet/BlackViolet/Black

I used some simple terminal blocks to test out my mapping before committing.

Everything worked out, so I went ahead and starting burning myself.

Update: As one kind user pointed out, my original mapping did not connect the Antenna Trigger. This didn't cause noticeable issues with FM reception, but made the AM band useless. I reviewed the stereo wiring guide and added a jumper wire to connect the Antenna Trigger to the Amp Trigger lines and this resolved the issue totally. I notice slightly better FM reception, and now AM reception actually works!

I've been living the hands-free dream for a couple of years now with no troubles!


  1. Was thinking of something like this. Thanks

  2. I replaced mine as well, but I cannot get the AM radio to work. I think the rear window antenna is not getting powered, but I'm not sure which wire to connect to make it work. How did you get that working?

    1. Nice catch! I had been thinking my fiancé's radio sounded a bit better than mine and had a sneaking suspicion I mucked up the antenna amp when I wrote this post. I too can't get any AM reception (I never listen to AM so it went unnoticed for years). I will investigate and update this post with my findings!

    2. Reading the wiring guide, I think the Antenna Trigger and Amp Trigger should both be connected to the Blue/White line. Therefore, the Green/Black and Pink/Black wires on the car's side should be tied together. I'm going to try it out this week, and will let you know if I set my car on fire.

    3. I've confirmed this works, and have updated the post. Thanks for the catch!

  3. Hey are there any better radios to use since you made this guide?


    1. I'm not going to enter that debate! It's all down to personal preference. I just wanted a good quality, low-zazz model that did everything I wanted without being particularly appealing to thieves. You can spend as much money as you want on a fancy touch-screen unit!

  4. Hey Jon,
    Thanks for the great post. I noticed there were two wire connectors going into the original manufacturer's stereo, a larger one and a smaller one. The wiring harness kit that I bought only connects to the larger connector. Is there another harness kit that accommodates that smaller connector, or is it just not used in aftermarket stereos? If that's the case, any idea what it did in the original stereo?
    Thanks again!

    1. Hi Adam,
      In the two radio swaps I've done, the Cable Harness hasn't exactly matched socket-to-socket to all the wires provided by the car. However, these connections are likely useful. My advice is to relocate the wires on the harness to sit in sockets which have a connection on the car side. There's usually a plastic tab inside the harness that secures in the crimped wire - you can get it out without breaking anything by carefully flexing the tab out using a tiny slot screwdriver. It's a pain! Good luck!

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  6. Thanks a ton for the Sonata resource - its been a huge help. Quick q - I just installed an aftermarket stereo, used a prefabbed harness which worked great and was easy to hook up. But now there is a constant hiss in all speakers (independent of volume, fade, input, etc). I connected ground to the nut/screw under the stereo, but no difference. Just wondering if you had this issue? Any ideas on how to kill it? I just connected 4 speaker wires, 2 power, 1 ground, antenna - missing anything?). Thanks again!

    1. Sorry to hear that! I didn't experience this issue. All I can suggest is continuing to check that the connections are good, and the ground connection is appropriate (try grounding to a different spot inside the dash, or leaving it floating. Good luck!

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    3. Turns out the noise was just due to cheap/non-"mainstream" stereo unit (Boss brand). Switching to a comparable Pioneer model totally fixed the issue (and only cost $40 more). Lesson learned - even when going cheap, don't go too cheap on electronic components (the hiss was likely due to low-quality built-in amp). Thanks again!

  7. Hey Jon or anyone,

    On my Sonata's harness I have pin 14 (beige) and pin 15 (yellow). Any ideas what these are? Don't know if it might be related, but the HU is with an additional (smaller) harness, what I assume to be the XM harness.

    1. This comment has been removed by the author.

    2. Actually, I figured that the pin 14 wire's color is not usually called "beige" but "tan". Also, the tan wire (pin 14) is a constant 0.5V, while the yellow one is 12V when the car is running (0V when off).


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